AIFW 2016: Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Rina Dhaka back to roots

New Delhi:  In the ongoing Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW) Autumn-Winter 2016 here, designers Kiran Uttam Ghosh and Rina Dhaka went back to where they started to seek inspiration and present their collections. The former added sparkle with her range titled 'Silver'', while the latter got knit wear to the runway on Wednesday. The contrasting bit was that while Ghosh's collection was all about maximalism, Dhaka's line was an embodiment for simplicity and minimalism. They showcased their collections at the opening day of the five-day fashion gala, organised by Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in association with Maybelline New York. It is being held at the Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium here. Ghosh drew inspiration from silver metal for the collection, and Dhaka turned the clock back to take up ideas from a time when she was associated with knitwear in early 1990s. "I am obsessed with silver. My first client dealt with silver and I also worked with the metal for one year for the project. Silver is in mind," Ghosh told reporters after the show. Dhaka also pointed out that "This is a knitwear line. I took inspiration from early 1990s when I was doing knitwear. I have went back the first time." Apt to the name of the collection, Ghosh's range was dominated by silver as it was embedded to each and every ensemble in various forms -- surface texturing, delicate mukaish embroidery, filigree work, collars, hemlines, chunky chokers and mirror work. With subtle hints of tribal fashion, the collection also took inspirations from Tibetan, Mongolian, Central Asian jewellery. With splash of hues like teal, ombre yellow, blue greens, indigo blues and red, the collection came with a striking duality in the shapes: fluidity versus structured, sheer versus opaque. There was light layering with a variation. Ornate jewellery was another highlight. Be it an elegant red sari, a red silk full sleeves with a chiffon skirt, a chiffon pleats halter neck gown, ensembles with work sheer brocade, flowy chiffon dress, wrap dress, asymmetrically drapes - the collection travelled from ethereally pretty to stylistically futurist to powerfully nomadic. Ghosh said: "Silver has a certain depth. We have used the metal mechanically and technically. It also has a rustic tribal edge. It is an ode maximalism with all the details." Dhaka laid out some trends for the fall season and the thing that stood out were a" sweater dresses, off shoulder outfits, boat necks with more focus on patterns and prints. The range used dark colours like black, gold, red, and blue with shimmer. The knitwear silhouette had intricate stitch structures adding surface dimension and texture. Ikat, chinar like edgings are knitted with lurex in various blends to create dresses, some are woven to blend shapes like off shoulder, boat necks ruffles, and raw edges. Dhaka said: "All the ensembles are knitted, so the pain was in for textiles and textures. It also has a bit of Banaras to support the Make In India movement. It is a simple line."